Through My Eyes
Saturday July 31
(We continue to listen to the Dalai Lama as he continues to tell of horrible and sad events at Lithang.)
" On one particular occasion,not far from Reting, I fell into conversation with a herdsman. 'Who are you?' he asked. He was a tall sturdy man with long shaggy hair like a yak's. 'A servant of the Dalai Lama,' I replied. We talked about his life out here in the countryside and about his hopes and fears for the future. He knew little about the Chinese and had never been to Lhasa. He was too busy coaxing a living for his family from the earth, with its thin,bitter soil, to worry about what was going on in the cities and beyond.
Yet for all his simplicity, I was delighted to find that he had a deep religious conviction and that the Buddha Dharma was thriving even in this remote region. He lived the life of peasants everywhere, in tune with Nature and the environment, but with little interest in the world that lay beyond his immediate horizon. I questioned him about his experiences with local government officials. He told me that they were mostly fair, though a few were officious. I greatly enjoyed our talk, which gave me many useful insights. Above all I learned that, despite this man's total lack of education, he was content and that, although he had not the slightest material comfort, he was secure in the knowledge that life for him was just as it had been for countless generations of his forebears and doubtless would continue the same for his children and their children. At the same time, I realised that this world view was no longer appropriate , that Tibet could no longer exist in elected peaceful isolation, no matter what the outcome with the Communist Chinese. When we finally parted company, we did so as the best of friends.
But the story continues. It so happened that the following day I was called upon to address the people of the next village that lay along our route and give them my blessing. A makeshift throne was put out for me and several hundred people gathered. All went well at first but then, looking around, I saw my friend from the day before standing amongst the audience with a look of abject bewilderment on his face. He could not believe his eyes. I smiled at him, but he stared blankly back. I felt quite sorry to have duped him.
When I actually arrived at Reting monastery, and came to pay my respects before its most important statue, I remembered that, for no particular reason, I became very emotional. I felt a powerful sense of having in some way been long connected with the place. Since then I have often thought of building a hermitage at Reting and spending the rest of my life there.
During the summer of 1956, an incident occurred which brought me more unhappiness than at almost any other time before or since. The Khampa/Amdowa freedom-fighters' alliance began to have considerable success. By May/June, numerous sections of the Chinese military road had been destroyed along with a great many bridges. As a result, the PLA drafted in 40,000 troop reinforcements. This was exactly what I had feared. No matter how successful the resistance was, the Chinese would overcome it in the end by sheer force of numbers and superior fire-power. But I could not have predicted the aerial bombing of the monastery at Lithang in Kham. When I heard of it, I cried. I could not believe that human beings were capable of such cruelty to each other.
This bombardment was followed by the merciless torture and execution of women and children whose fathers and husbands had joined the resistance movement and, incredibly, by the disgusting abuse of monks and nuns. After arrest, these simple religious people were forced- in public- to break their vows of celibacy with one another and even to kill people. I did not know what to do, but do something I must. I immediately demanded a meeting with General Chiang Kuo-ha, whom I informed that I was intending to write personally to Chairman Mao. ' How are Tibetans supposed to trust the Chinese if this is how you behave?' I demanded. I told him point-blank that it was wrong for them to have done such a thing. But this only started an argument. My criticisms were an insult to the Motherland , which wanted only to protect and assist my people. If some of my countrymen did not want reforms- reforms which would benefit the masses because they would prevent their exploitation- then they could expect to be punished. His reasoning was lunatic. I told him that this could in no way justify the torture of innocent people, still less bombing them from the air.
It was a useless exercise, of course. The General stood his ground. My only hope was that Chairman Mao would see that his subordinates were disobeying his instructions.
I dispatched a letter straight away. There was no reply. So I sent another, again via the official channel. At the same time, I persuaded Phuntsog Wangyal to deliver a third letter personally to Mao. But this also went unacknowledged. As the weeks went by and I had still heard nothing from Peking, I began for the first time really to doubt the intentions of the Chinese leadership. This shook me. After my visit to China, and despite the many negative impressions I had received, my attitude toward the Communists was still basically positive. Now however, I began to see that Chairman Mao's words were like a rainbow- beautiful, but without substance.
Phuntsog Wangyal had arrived in Lhasa at the time of the inauguration of PCART. I was very glad to see him again. He was as committed as ever to Communism. After the April festivities, he accompanied some important Chinese officials on a tour of the outlying districts. On his return, he told me an amusing story. One of the Chinese high officials had asked a peasant living in some remote farming community what he thought of the new regime. The man replied that he was quite happy. ' Except for one thing. This new tax.' 'What new tax?' the official asked. 'The clapping tax. Every time a Chinese comes to visit we all have to turn out and clap'."
( Lithang is on upper reaches of the Li chu which flows into the Yalong Dza chu; our Footprint Tibet handbook calls it Litang. I promise to add more tomorrow...)
*( please click here to read of the day with me )
* This is from the book Freedom in Exile The Autobiography of the Dalai Lama by Tenzin Gyatso, the fourteenth
Dalai Lama of Tibet.
( Please see my spinning for you!)
( Tahshi Deleh gentle one! Kehrahng kusu debo yinpeh? I began the day in our studio spinning for you and working a bit on the weaving. After that I headed up our precious snow mountain to begin spraying again. Then I went to the place of the Tenger's gift to continue work there. It was still quite mucky but two as one we're making good progress! After that I headed to our studio to work on our a land of Tibet where I found we've received some wonderful news! I can't tell of this here though beautiful one. It will have to wait until you come. Which reminds me, I haven't brought us a picture of your Medlar tree in awhile. I'll bring it to us soon. I'm going to put the pages up on our infosite.Two as one we've fixed a few more mistakes on the website as usual. I'll put this up for now so we can rest.
And so, as always we'll continue two as one on to tomorrow
my one gentle beautiful patient swift dream bright
long dark mane in sunlight
so for now I bid goodnight...Simjah Nahngo!)
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