Through My Eyes                                              




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 We're in our coracle on Tsodzong island in the midst of Lake Draksum Tso of the Goddess Tsomen Gyelmo! We've headed up the Nyang Chu from the Middle Kongpo to the Upper Kongpo over three bridges.  Before the first ,Nangsel Zampa, is the long climb through the fields of barley and tree covered slopes that leads to the stone towers of Pangri Jokpo the retreat of the Terton Jatson Nyingpo. Among the images there is one we haven't seen before, that of Ling Gesar , one of Tibet's great heroes. There are many legends associated with Ling Gesar. He's not the same as the Buryat shaman Gesar Khan though. Beyond that is the village of Len with it's twelve cornered tapered towers. I find it tough to believe that someone would go to such trouble to trap birds of prey which is the alternative explanation our Footprint Tibet handbook gives in lieu of the demon built fortifications.  That second bridge is the Zhoka Zhampa bridge; not far from here is the telecommunications and remote tracking installation I think was probably established by the Chinese. It's said that prior to the Chinese arrival Tibetans hadn't even seen a plane and didn't even have a word for it!  Anyway a few glacial fed streams flow into Lake Draksum Tso and there are four great snow mountains visible to the Northeast: Namla Karpo,Naphu Gomri, Amo Jomo Takste and Mount Darchenri. On the island itself are many wondrous things in addition to the white stone of Tsomen Gyelmo and the tigress' paw prints  among them the life supporting tree, the lashing as it was called of the demon Dud Achung Gyelpo that was cut down by Ling Gesar,a stone snake associated with the hero, and a nectar stream at the Tashi Obar stupa. I'm not sure what nectar is except that it is considered the drink of the Gods and Goddesses or alternatively the Buddhist teachings that in uniting humans to their wisdom mind impart immortality in this fashion. This place seems very shamanic!  There's a lot more to add but as usual two as one we'll add to the notes later beautiful one!

                                                                                
                                                                         * courtesy of A Luminous Diamond (Bright) Crystal Show productions. The information for
                                                                          the sketches is  courtesy of the Footprint Tibet handbook by Gyurme Dorje.   



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